V5 PRO IPS

Getting Started

This kit requires you to solder the two speaker contacts.

Before we begin installation of this kit, ensure it has all the required pieces.

Parts Included In This Kit:

  • IPS Screen

  • IPS Control Motherboard

  • Alignment Bracket

  • Ribbon Cable

  • Front PCB Replacement

For this guide we will be assuming that you are using an IPS ready shell like these ones - Retrosix and FunnyPlaying. If you are not using an IPS ready shell, you will need to perform shell modifications.

Prerequisite Steps

  1. Follow our Disassembly Guide.

  2. Leave the main board in the rear housing. Removal is unnecessary.

  3. Read our getting started guide on soldering

  4. Fully test your IPS kit before installation.

  • Test before installation! When you receive a backlight/LCD kit, you should perform a dry run before installing to assure that nothing has been damaged in transit. A dry run or test fit means the kit is not installed in the shell. This includes the use of adhesives, brackets, and any performed soldering. All ribbon cables should have no bends or creases in them. If you are unsure how to perform a dry run, please contact our support team and we will be happy to help. Backlight kits that have been installed are not eligible for replacement or return.

  • LCD may break if put under too much pressure or dropped. Please exercise extreme caution when installing.

Recommended setup for dry test

Recommended setup for dry test

Installation

Shell Modification

If you are not using a pre-cut IPS ready shell, perform these steps:

If fitment issues are noted/console is closing too tight, optional step to trim this area:

Next, take your shell and place it with the front of the shell on the table, insert the alignment bracket provided with the kit.

Now grab your screen and remove the protective layer from the front of the display.

Drop the display into the alignment bracket, be sure not to touch the screen at all in this process or you will have to clean the smudges.

Now you can place your buttons into the shell as well.

Those will be followed up with their membranes.

Next up, grab the front PCB replacement, and place it on top of the buttons and screen. Here is where you may want to install a speaker by soldering the positive and negative wires to the pads in the lower left. We did not in this case, to preserve the kit.

Now you can install your six screws to hold the front PCB in place. This is followed by flipping the black tab of the connector up and inserting the ribbon cable before locking it down again.

Now we can jump to the back shell of the console, here we can insert our power button. This is followed by our main motherboard, and the screws to hold it down.

If your contrast wheel is still sticking and binding, then you should trim down these through hole pins. Trim them and then reflow them to ensure there is no extra height above the board. You may also want to perform the shell modifications in the contrast wheel area mentioned above.

Now that we have both halves of the console independently built, it’s time to join them together with the ribbon cable. This will be a tough process, the ribbon cable is a tight fit so take your time and make sure it’s fully inserted into each port.

From this point you can put in all your back screws and seal the console up.

To open the OSD, hold the contrast button in. As it has been replaced with the new front PCB, it acts as a button now. When the OSD opens you can scroll up and down to move up and down in the menu, then press in and scroll to adjust each value.

When you are not in the OSD you can adjust which color palette you are on by pressing the contrast button in once. There are a total of 36 different preset color palettes.